SWARMING
- Problems from swarming
- Reduces the worker force
- Hive that swarms may not make any surplus honey
- Sometimes the swarm is not recovered
- Valuable queens can be lost
- There may be after-swarms which further reduces the worker force
- Factors that may lead to swarming (“Suggested”)
- Overcrowded hive
- Congestion of the brood area or lack of egg laying space
- Increased adult bee numbers creating more heat
- Less Queen pheromones
- Colonies with an older queen (more than 2 years old)
- Genetics (requeen)
- Overcrowded hive
- Indications of swarming
- Laying drone eggs
- Drawing queen cup cells
- Rearing larva in the queen cups (this is a major step in swarming)
- Early spring and a mild winter
- Plenty of food stores and a good honey flow
- Timing of hive inspections
- A queen cell emerges from her cell ≈16 days after being an egg. Weather permitting, the swarm will issue before the virgin queens emerge. If you inspect your hives every 7 to 9 days, a swarm wouldn’t have a chance to issue.
- Swarm Prevention
- Reverse the brood boxes
- Reorganize the frames in the brood area to provide more egg laying room
- Place the empty frames in the center of the box
- Add another brood box if your hive only has one brood box
- Make a split or nuc
- Equalize colonies
- Replace the old Queen
- Add honey supers (add them sooner than later)
- Extract the honey (this encourages more foraging)
- Clip one of the Queens wings (some beekeepers don’t like this)
- Switch colonies to equalize the population
- A strong and weak colonies location can be switched.
- The field force from the strong colony can increase the population of the weaker colony
- For last minute prevention
- Destroy all the queen cells (you have to check every frame and not miss even one cell)
- Remove or cage the Queen (caging the Queen would be a last resort).
From the notes of Richard Farrier.